Tomatillos & Ground Cherries
70 days. This unusual deep purple tomatillo makes an ideal salsa with its sweet tart flavor. The plant has striking purple veins in the leaves, and the husks are light green to buff colored. Very decorative as a garnish. We've noticed that after harvest when husks are completely removed, the skin becomes more uniformly purple.
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|Seed Depth||Seed Spacing||Soil Temp for Germ.||Days to Germ.||Thin Plants To||See Below|
Physalis spp.: These tasty summer treats are even more mineral-dense than tomatoes, packed with unique phytochemicals and flavonoids.
CULTURE: Both tomatillos and ground cherries are easy to grow. Start indoors as you would tomatoes. Growing tips are the same. Direct sowing outdoors is not recommended.
DISEASES AND INSECTS: Natural genetic plant resistance is the best form of disease control. For diseases like early and late blight, a strict 3 year rotation and a sanitation program that includes destroying all the vines at the end of the year are your best defenses. Contact your local county extension agent for more information.
HARVEST: Fruit is ripe when the light brown papery husk has folded back to reveal the plump berry. Ripe fruit will soon fall to the ground.
SEED SPECS: Minimum germination standard: 75%. Usual seed life: 3 years. Tomatillo: approximately 60-65 seeds per 1/8 gram, about 500 seeds per gram. Ground cherry: approximately 150 seeds per 1/8 gram, about 1200 seeds per gram.
CULTURE: Sow seeds indoors into sterile seedling mix 6-8 weeks before your last spring frost. Plant, water lightly, and cover with plastic or a Propagation Dome to keep the seeds from drying out. When the first set of true leaves has emerged, up-pot into 3-4 inch pots and place in an area with full light and cooler temperatures (60-70°F). This will help prevent legginess. Water carefully, allowing the soil to dry on the surface between watering, but don't let the plants wilt. Fertilize with fish emulsion every 10-14 days. Seven to ten days before you want to transplant outside, set the plants in a sheltered area outdoors to harden off. Bring in or cover at night to protect from frost. After the danger of frost has passed, transplant into well worked garden soil. Blend 1/4 cup of our complete fertilizer into the soil around each plant. If you have acid soils or have been bothered by blossom end rot, a handful of bone meal should also be added. Space determinate varieties 18-24 inches apart and indeterminate varieties 20-30 inches apart. Allow 3-4 feet between rows. If your plants have become leggy, plant them deeper; the stems will actually sprout roots. Water very lightly at first, allowing the stems to adapt.. To promote early growth and better yields use season extending products such as Wallo' Waters, Kozy Coats, Victorian Bell Cloches, or Red Plastic Mulch.
INSECTS/PESTS: Use Pyrethrin or crop row covers to discourage flea beetles early in the season, when they can be most destructive. Tomato hornworms can be controlled with Bacillus thuringienses (a bacteria also known as B.t.) sold as Monterey B.t. (ZIN503).
DISEASES: Natural genetic plant resistance is the best form of disease control. For diseases like early and late blight, a strict 3 year rotation and a sanitation program that includes destroying all the vines at the end of the year are your best defenses. Contact your local county extension agent for more information.
KEY TO TOMATO DISEASE RESISTANCE AND TOLERANCE
HR indicates high resistance.
IR indicates intermediate resistance.
AB | Early (Alternaria) Blight
B | Bacterial Wilt
F* | Fusarium Wilt
FOR | Fusarium Crown and Root Rot
L | Gray Leaf Spot
LB | Late Blight
LM | Leaf Mold
N | Roundworm | Nematode
PL | Corky Root Rot
PST | Bacterial Speck
RK | Root-Knot
TMV | Tobacco Mosaic Virus
ToMV* | Tomato Mosaic Virus
TSWV | Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus
TYLCV | Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl Virus
V | Verticillium Wilt
* Numbers indicate specific disease race.