All Peppers

Crème Brulée Pepper

Crème Brulée Pepper


70 days. With the color of custard and a distinctly sweet, mild flavor, Crème Brulée is a delightful, tasty treat that produced more peppers on each plant than almost any other sweet pepper in our trials. The 4-lobed fruit are juicy and crisp with a concentrated seed cluster that makes cleaning a snap. Simply scrumptious when fried, stuffed and baked, or just sliced raw on salad. The large, elongated fruit crowd together on vigorous, amazingly productive plants. Peppers reach 3 inches across and 5 inches long and ripen from blush to a fiery red.

   Hybrid Variety
  • PP684/S
  • Sold Out
    For 2016.
  • $3.15

  • PP684/P
  • Sold Out
    For 2016.
  • $6.45
  • More Information
  • Customer Reviews (1)
Seed DepthSeed SpacingSoil Temp for Germ.Days to Germ.Thin Plants To Approximately 35 seeds per 1/4 gram.
1/4″See Below70-90°F8-2512-18″

Capsicum annuum: Our wide array of fabulous peppers, both sweet and hot, offers one of the richest sources of nutrients in the plant kingdom. Hot peppers contain capsaicin, which revs up your metabolism and reduces general inflammation in the body.

CULTURE: Using a sterile seedling mix, sow seeds 8-10 weeks before your last frost. Germination rates may be erratic if soil is allowed to dry out. Once the seedlings have 2 sets of true leaves, they can be up-potted to a 3-inch pot and grown at 70°F during the day and 60°F during the night. Make sure the seedlings have plenty of light, and give them a liquid fertilizer solution, such as Earth Juice Grow. Remember, strong transplants perform best and will give the highest yields. Peppers grow very slowly, or not at all, in cold soils, so resist the temptation to plant outside too early. The timing for transplanting is perfect when the plants are just starting to become root bound and the garden soil has warmed to at least 65°F. Transplant peppers outside 2-3 weeks after tomatoes in rows 24-30 inches apart. The bed should be rich and well-supplied with nitrogen. Adding fertilizers such as blood meal, fish bone meal, or composted chicken manure will help the plants make vigorous, vegetative growth for their first 6 weeks in the garden. At planting time, use about 1/2 cup of a high-nitrogen fertilizer side dressed below and around each plant; and a 1/2 cup of complete fertilizer when they begin to flower. As an option, consider using Black or Green Mulch in the pepper bed. Also covering the plant with Reemay or Gro-Therm can be especially helpful in early plantings. Be mindful of high daytime temperatures as the season progresses, as even heat loving vegetables such as peppers can get too hot. Remember to keep peppers uniformly moist throughout the growing season and you'll be enjoying the explosion of color, flavor, and heat that peppers offer.
INSECTS/DISEASES: Most insects and diseases that attack tomatoes will also affect peppers. Pyrethrin or a floating row cover will effectively eliminate insect pests if used early in the season. Whenever possible use disease-resistant varieties and proper sanitation in the garden. If you have experienced disease problems with either tomatoes or peppers, don't plant in the same spot for 3 seasons and rotate with a green manure crop.
HARVEST: Fruit set after late August usually will not fully develop or ripen. Peppers are generally fully ripe and have the most flavor and vitamins when they turn red, yellow, purple, or orange. They can be kept in good condition for at least 40 days at 32°F and 95% relative humidity.
SEED SPECS: Minimum germination standard: 70%. Usual seed life: 2 years. Days to maturity are calculated from date of transplanting and reflect edible green fruit.

HR indicates high resistance.
IR indicates intermediate resistance.
PeMV | Pepper Mottle Virus
PVY* | Potato Y potyvirus
TEV | Tobacco Etch Virus
TMV | Tobacco Mosaic Virus
ToMV | Tomato Mosaic Virus
TSWV* | Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus
* Numbers indicate specific disease race.
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Prolific, but mild is mild
Jun 17, 2016  |  By Dan McKay
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Here in the well-buffered zone 7 of the pacific northwest, these plants produced enormous numbers of peppers. Flavor is the reason I'm not continuing to grow them. Don't get me wrong - If you're looking for a pepper that looks great, would do well in a salad where you're more interested in some crunch, and of which you'll have plenty, these are a great option. If you like peppers that do well for roasting, with a lot of sweetness, or other unique flavors, that's not their thing. They're all very productive, but slightly inconsistent from plant to plant, with a few having very, very short internodal spacing - these plants were, in the first year, also the most productive, producing a slightly more pointed/tapered pepper (makes me wonder if the cross involves a not-hot candle/ornamental pepper). Those super-productive plants don't make it well into a second year - they're so stocky they start to grow into themselves, no matter how much you try to clear foliage out to the tips. However, most of the plants grow more like a bell, still produce a lot of peppers, and can be cut back and regrown as easily as most.